Hiking Dude Blog

Saturday - I thought yesterday was hot and humid, but today wins! We dropped down the last few hills before a 12 mile walk along dirt roads through vast palm oil forests and paved roads through small towns in the coastal flatland. It was mostly a grind avoiding traffic and keeping the feet moving towards the coast.

We did stop at a store for fresh coconut water - a straw poked in a hole in the coconut! That was refreshing.

Reaching the end of the trail around 1:30 at the ocean in Quepos was sudden and fulfilling. With no more land to walk on, we could take our time the rest of the day relaxing and enjoying our success.

You can see photos on Instagram

Friday - Is it possible to have 110% humidity?
Our hike started up on a ridgeline with swallow-tailed kites riding the wind above us. At about 8am, we got our first view of the Pacific Ocean 13 days after walking away from the Caribbean Sea!

Once we began the long descent towards the coast, the humidity skyrocketed. Low, stifling clouds and warmth from the sun made a great sauna experience. Our support vehicle stopping with cold drinks and snacks occasionally made it much more bearable.
Most of our hike was on remote dirt roads through lush rain forest but 27km of mostly steep descents wow on legs that had been hiking for 12 days already.
Lunch was at a very remote home of a man that left the city life to subside off the land. The view from his lofty shelter was wonderful. The home grown vegetable meal was also delicious. After lunch, he led us on a faint jungle trail back to the main route. In this thick jungle, the humidity was obvious and did not let up until the end of the day.

With occasional glimpses of the coast to motivate us, we hiked on eventually reaching a most wonderful destination for the night.
Rudy has created a bird sanctuary to conserve lands and education people. It is over 100 acres of land set aside from encroachment and open to visitors to learn about pretty much all things conservation-minded in Costa Rica. He is extremely passionate and had a great small staff to provide a memorable experience. And, they have the best hot shower that over had on the past 2 weeks!

After a nice chat about conversation and a most wonderful chicken dinner, it has cooled down considerably and is now finally pleasant. But, honestly, I believe today was probably the most humid hike I've ever done. The jungle was alive with the sounds of cicadas and birds at times, and this is what I was expecting when contemplating a hike across Costa Rica. I'm just glad every day was not like this.

As I'm writing this before bed, I have huge cicadas flying about and landing on me. Nature everywhere!

You can see our progress at Hikers Social

Thursday - today was a shorter 15km hike sandwiched between long yesterday and longer tomorrow. It was sort of a 'more of the same' hike with steep roads and coffee plantations.

We had great, cool weather most of the day with clouds billowing all around us but no rain. The wind was very strong at points.

Learning how the coffee is picked, measured, transported, and processed was interesting. Seeing actual workers laboring in the sun on the steep hillsides was sobering.

Our hike ended with a nice lunch at a home on a mountain with views far out over the valley. From there, a shuttle took us to our lodging in a different town. Tonight, it is a private house being rented out.

I don't think I'll ever really figure out how to get a hot shower in Costa Rica. The electric heater in the showerhead is a great idea but seems impossible for me to regulate.

You can see our progress at Hikers Social and pictures on Instagram

Wednesday - Rained much of the night but once again we woke to a clear morning, just earlier than most at 5:30 so we could start this long hike earlier.

Part of this section is walking along one of the most busy roadways in the country. To eliminate most of that stressful part, we had an additional guide join us to lead us over a new dirt road that only he knows about. This new part was so steep that my heels did not touch the ground, only the balls of my feet.

It appears there are no rules, or even guidelines, for road construction in Costa Rica. They are narrow, steep, rough, and windy. So, even though much of this Camino is on road, they are often more like wide trails.

But, a good chunk of today's 30km hike was along a paved road with very little shoulder. Worst part of the trek so far with trucks roaring past just inches away. There are so many pedestrians that it seems vehicles expect them and we had no close calls.

Being a long hike, most of us were tired out by the end of our walk. About a third of our group had complaints of gastrointestinal problems or leg pains. Everyone completed our walk and I hope they are feeling better in the morning.

We are stayng at a hotel with separate cabins in a town. It's is nice and quiet so I hope to have a better sleep than last night.

Food continues to be tasty and plentiful. The weather this afternoon was ominous with rolling thunder during our hike but only a few sprinkles of rain before clearing out in the evening.

You can see our progress at Hikers Social

Tuesday - Best night of rest so far on the trip last night. We were all in a rustic lodge but the chill air and thick blankets were perfect for sleeping.

Much of today was on gravel road, but the highlight was a slow, careful walk on a narrow jungle trail with Nelson. He is a fungus expert and is passionate about mushrooms!

Part of the trail was used in the 1948 civil war by fighters as a secret route to move equipment and Nelson's great-grandfather was one of them. Along the way, we saw a few fungi but also some flowers, birds, and a pair of spider monkeys.

Coming out of the jungle, we visited a hummingbird garden and had a nice lunch at Nelson's parent's house high on the mountain looking over the valley below.

The road walks were steep as usual but we seem to be getting used to them. We again avoided rain today as it sprinkled after we reached our lodging spot.

This place is a brand new spa resort area with a gathering lodge and many beautiful cabins. It will be difficult to outdo this rest stop on the rest of the trek. There were many birds and even a coati to watch as we relaxed on the veranda before dinner. Dinner was salmon and potatoes and very good.

We only have 4 more hiking days so people in our group are starting to look towards the end. Two of these days appear to be our hardest, longest ones and some pains are developing, so there is icing and stretching and a little worrying going on in the group.

You can see our progress at Hikers Social

Monday - The rain cleared out over night and we started with a cool, clear sunny morning that warmed up a bit through the day. It was a wonderful day for hiking.

We began the day with a great breakfast with bean burrito, small egg bake cup, toast, and lots of fruit - watermelon cantaloupe papaya banana pineapple and mango.

Our 16km hike was up a mountain and down the other side, ending with some fairly flat walking across the valley and up a final draw to a lodge in the low hills.

We hiked up the mountain along an extensive water project that delivers water from a high mountain reservoir to the population below. Our guide explained that access to potable water is a right to all citizens of Costa Rica.

We saw quite a collection of birds through the morning, including tanningers, hawks, hummingbirds, and others. As we left town, three small dogs joined us. They guided us for our entire hike and we have no idea if they returned home the 16km or are just sleeping somewhere out there tonight.

We traversed a large coffee plantation with it's own community of worker houses. Crossing a small foot bridge over a creek, we arrived in Navarro around 1pm. Our hosts provided a nice lunch of vegetables and rice and then everyone got settled, took showers, and relaxed.

It is quite a bit cooler here since we are higher into the mountains. Our dinner of vegetable and sausage soup with rice was perfect for a chilly evening.

You can see our progress at Hikers Social